Games Workshop Warhammer Citadel Base Paint Rakarth Flesh 12ml

Product Information

Two Thin Coats washes are more pigmented than the new formula Citadel Shade paints that come in the 18ml pots, and darken the basecoat more, while drying to a very matte finish. So if you preferred the old Citadel Shade paints, you might want to give Duncan Rhode’s washes a try. In the graphic above you can see all the washes painted over white primer, and in fact, some washes are very similar to their Citadel Shade counterparts, but a few are slightly different, for example, Battle Mud Wash is a slightly more yellowish brown than Agrax Earthshade. Step 5(Left)- This layer is a mix of Hyek Yellow and Dead White. Hit a smaller portion of the Screaming Skull to build up a brighter highlight.

This dude is probably the most straightforward of the bunch; he’s basically all robes, wood, and bone, which you should get used to painting with this set. It is a thin paint that is easy to work with and dries to a matte finish, making it a good choice for creating realistic and detailed skin effects on miniature models.

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Mix in a little more Skavenblight Dinge and layer up again, concentrating on raised areas where light would hit

Mix in a little more Mephiston Red and layer up again, concentrating on raised areas where light would hit Thin your paints. No, more than that. Consider investing in some thinner medium and glaze medium (I use Vallejo) to stop your paint splitting when you thin it down enough for skin work Mix your Cadian with a dab of Ushbati Bone (about 3:1) and highlight the raised areas (those that would catch the light). Then add a little more Ushbati and do it again, but on slightly smaller areas that are more prominent. Keep doing this until you’re at 1:1 Cadian: Ushbati. I started off with Contrast Talassar Blue on the pants and Contrast Guilliman Flesh for the skin. I then moved onto Contrast Snakebite Leather for all of the leather bits The skin on the sergeant was done with Elf flesh mixed with a little Codex grey, highlight up with some bleached bone. Shaded with flesh wash.

Red

If you’re also working on an Arch-Regent (and I mean, why wouldn’t you, they’re one of the best models in the range both in detail and on the table!), then there are a few things the model has that other FEC don’t, namely: clothing. I didn’t want to move too far away from the rest of the army, and the crumbling pillar is a huge part of the base too (as well as the dead rat, don’t forget it!), so I got some base colors out and added on to the model. The tattered clothing is Doombull Brown, which I then washed with Reikland Fleshade and then highlighted with a coat of Doombull Brown mixed with some White Scar, and then an even lighter version of this mix for raised edges and corners. The shoulder and all other metal is Canoptek Alloy which I then coated in Cryptek Armourshade Gloss. The scenic base piece is coated in Zamesi Desert, washed a 1:1 mix of Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil, and then drybrushed with Zandri Dust and some Ushabti Bone. The claws, teeth, and skulls are a classic bone recipe of Ushabti Bone, Agrax Earthshade, Ushabti Bone again for a highlight, and then Screaming Skull and Pallid Wych Flesh as a final touch. Lay down a thin layer of Vallejo Model Air Light Gull Gray on the bone bits – you want this to be thin and ever so slightly inconsistent to give the effect of weathered and bleached bone